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English Rose (Rosa — David Austin types) combines the visual lushness and fragrance of old garden roses — the cupped, quartered, deeply petaled blooms and intoxicating scent of the 18th-century Gallicas and Damasks — with the modern repeat-flowering ability that makes a rose bloom reliably from June through October rather than once. English Roses were developed by David Austin beginning in 1969, and the category now encompasses hundreds of named varieties in every color from palest cream through blush pink, deep crimson, apricot, and peachy copper. They tend to be more disease-resistant than their old-rose ancestors while preserving the authentic, complex fragrance — tea rose, myrrh, fruit, or old rose — that modern hybrid teas sacrificed in pursuit of other traits. In the garden, English Roses range from compact 3-foot shrubs to vigorous 8-foot climbers.
Plant English Roses in a site with at least 6 hours of direct sun — roses in too much shade bloom sparsely and are far more susceptible to blackspot. Prepare the planting hole generously: dig 18 inches deep and wide, incorporating a full bucket of well-rotted compost or manure. Plant bare-root roses in late winter or early spring (November in mild climates); container roses can be planted any time with care. Set the bud union (the swollen knob at the base of the canes) at soil level in zones 6–9, or 1–2 inches below soil level in zones 4–5 for winter protection. Feed with a balanced rose fertilizer in early spring as leaves emerge, again after the first flush of flowers fades (typically late June), and finally in late July to power the autumn bloom. Prune English Roses in late winter (March in most zones): remove dead, damaged, and crossing branches, then reduce remaining stems by one-third to one-half. Do not be timid — hard pruning produces more vigorous new growth and better flowers. Spray preventively for blackspot and powdery mildew, or choose resistant varieties (Olivia Rose, The Alnwick Rose, Lady of Shalott) if you prefer a spray-free garden.
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